Finding My Passion

I recently heard several different people talking about passion – and how if you follow your passion, you will find your place in the world.  Those of you who know me know that, for the past several years, my “passion” has been working for the end of the Israeli occupation of Palestine (or, as I tell less politically aware friends, “working for peace and justice in the Middle East!”) 

That passion has led me down some very interesting roads – from my time as an EA to my present involvement with what I refer to as “church politics.”  Serving three months in Palestine is only half of the “job description” with EAPPI.  The other half is advocacy, which starts with classes and lectures in Jerusalem at the end of our time there, and continues with “de-briefing” in our home countries.  From there, we choose the path that our advocacy will take.

Political advocacy may be effective for my European teammates, who have governments that are far less in the thrall of lobbyists and the big money that controls Washington, D.C. than the U.S.  Yes, there are letter-writing campaigns and other grass roots efforts – and yes, I do keep in touch with my elected officials – but their lack of response and the frustrations of the political system led me to choose to do my advocacy through my church.  And I’m here to tell you that “church politics” is no less fraught with perils than any other kind!

I am a United Methodist, a “mainline” Protestant denomination noted for outreach and doing good for others.  “Do all the good you can, to all the people you can, in all the ways you can…” is attributed to Methodist founder John Wesley, and whether he said it or not, I believe it and try to follow it.  Upon my return from Palestine in the spring of 2013, I started to connect with individuals and organizations within the United Methodist church who were working for justice – specifically for justice in the Holy Land. 

I got re-acquainted with Methodist Federation for Social Action (MFSA), the local chapter of which was at that time working on legislation to establish a “Holy Land Task Force” in our Annual Conference (consisting of the states of Oregon and Idaho).  It was an uphill battle to take even this “baby step,” but the resolution was successful; the Task Force was formed, and I was asked to chair it.

I also learned about United Methodist Kairos Response (UMKR), a semi-official group of Methodists from across the denomination.  At that time, their focus was on getting divestment resolutions passed at both local and international level; UMKR has since expanded its work to also include education, travel and political advocacy.  This, then, is another area in which I focus my advocacy efforts.

It is, for me, heartening to work with people who care about this issue as passionately as I do – and to find ways in which we can educate still more people.  At the same time, it is frustrating to meet people who have no idea what our government, churches and media are doing that is so contrary to those “American values” of liberty, equality and justice!

I started this post intending to write about the political process in my church that has led the Task Force to introduce divestment legislation to our Annual Conference – and will ultimately lead to some of the resolutions that will be introduced at our quadrennial General Conference next year.   So consider this background – and stay tuned!

Return to Palestine

In many ways, it was wonderful to return to Palestine a couple of weeks ago.  I was happy to introduce a group of fellow United Methodists (8 from Oregon and 8 from Nebraska) to both the beauty and the heartache of the place, as we travelled from the Northern Galilee to the Judean desert, visiting holy sites and talking to Christians, Jews and Muslims about how the Occupation affects their lives, and what we can do to help. 

Because I spent my time as an EA in the north (Tulkarm), during this same time of year (spring), there was a poignant joy in seeing the wildflowers on the hills, the green of the olive trees and the sparkle of sunshine.  And it was wonderful to share favourite spots with my friends – a walk in the Roman ruins of Sabastiya, a visit to the de-populated village of Bi’ram, time in the mosque and market of Hebron,  and a lunchtime visit with Daoud Nasser at the Tent of Nations.

Roman Theatre in Sabastiya

At the same time, I was saddened by the changes in the past two years.  In Sabastiya, we learned that Israeli tractors were disturbing the ruins near the theatre, with total disregard for the archeological  heritage there that had earned it “most visited spot in the Middle-East” in 1965. 

Bi'ram

Save for the Israeli tourists who have no clue that a vibrant village once stood in the shade of the trees where they picnic, Bi’ram remains untouched by time, yet alive in the memory of the dispossessed who are now passing the history to their children and grandchildren, as well as to those visitors who are willing to stop and listen.

Hebron Souk

In Hebron, the shops of Shuhuda Street remain padlocked while soldiers and settlers wander its quiet streets, but the old souk was, if not thriving, at least open for business in defiance of the trash-catching nets overhead.  And, at the Tent of Nations, tree-planting to replace the trees uprooted by Israeli bulldozers last spring continues even as the surrounding settlements come ever-closer.

We spent an afternoon in Wadi Fukin, a Palestinian village on the outskirts of Bethlehem that was “adopted” by the Methodist Church several years ago.  In spite of the residents of this village having made two visits to the US for Congressional hearings on how the Occupation is affecting them, construction continues on the settlement above – noticeably larger and closer than when I’d last visited in 2012.

The Settlement looms over Wadi Fukin

Of the 16 travelers, only three had been there before.  Watching the reactions of people seeing first-hand the reality of Occupation brought back my own memories of how I first came to this place (on a Methodist study trip in 2008).  When I returned from that trip, I knew I would be talking and teaching about it – but I wasn’t sure I’d ever return.  But, as I’d been warned, a visit to the Holy Land – particularly a visit where one sees ALL of the Holy Land – is life-changing.  Not only have I been back (5 times now!), but I can’t stay away!

Tent of Nations

I did not return home with the group.  My excuse was that I wanted to make a short visit to Petra (which I did!).  But what I really wanted was to spend a few days in Jerusalem by myself, walking in the Old City, talking to friends who have made their life work there, and enjoying the tranquility of the garden at St. George’s guesthouse, where I lodged for those few days.  I did all of those things – and now feel more ready for the difficult work of continuing my activism within (and without) the Methodist church.

Palestine for Tourists

Sabastiya  is a wonderful "hidden gen" for tourists to Palestine

I recently found myself engaged in an e-mail conversation with the editor of a travel magazine (which, for the present, shall remain nameless!) about whether Palestine is a “travel destination” worthy of listing in his magazine.  Without going into the historical and political background that he and I have been discussing, I thought it might be interesting to share some of the reasons that I gave him as to why Palestine should be included in the “list of destinations” that his publication lists on its website and, more importantly, to address reasons that one should consider Palestine as a tourist destination.

I wondered, initially, if the magazine’s list included only UN member states, as Palestine’s observer state designation may have served to disqualify it, but, as the magazine’s list has 196 entries while the UN’s list of “member states” has 193, I concluded this was probably not the case (still awaiting his response!)

Church of the 10 Lepers, Palestine

Mr. Editor (who I do not believe has traveled to this part of the world) had some misinformation about border crossings, thinking that a visa is needed to enter Israel or Palestine.  Those of us who have traveled there know that visas are not needed, a passport will suffice.  We are also aware that travelers of Palestinian heritage, regardless what country they are citizens of (i.e. US, Great Britain, France, etc.) are usually not allowed to enter Israel through Ben Gurion Airport in Tel Aviv.  These visitors, if they are able to visit Palestine at all, must fly from the US to Amman, Jordan, and then cross the border from Jordan. 

And, as those of us who have spent time in this part of the world are well aware, one does, indeed, have to cross a border from Israel to get into Palestine – and, of course, to re-enter Israel from Palestine.  Thus, the border crossing “issue” is, indeed, a reason to separate Palestine from Israel when writing about travel in this part of the world.

Palestinian cuisine is wonderful...

“Exhibit A” in my lengthy letter to Mr. Editor pointed out that “travel guru” Rick Steves, spent time in both Israel and Palestine in the spring of 2013, went back later that year for filming, and, in the fall of 2014 presented three television shows on the area – one giving “background” information about both places and the ongoing “conflict” there (http://www.ricksteves.com/watch-read-listen/video/tv-, show/tv-specials/holy-land) one about travel in Israel (https://www.ricksteves.com/watch-read-listen/video/tv-show/israel) and one about travel in Palestine (http://www.ricksteves.com/watch-read-listen/video/tv-show/season-8/palestine) . Rick may have initially achieved fame for “Europe by the Back Door,” but these days, if he is writing about and filming a travel destination, that means it has become “mainstream!”  And let’s not forget travel/food guru Anthony Bourdain, who did a wonderful show on Palestinian cuisine a year or so ago!

...and the hospitality cannot be beaten!!

Anyone who travels extensively knows that the best way to understand a place and its people is to visit there.  Palestine is a destination worthy of a visit in its own right.  At present, most tourists who do go there are limited to a brief stop in Bethlehem, where they pay a quick visit to the Church of the Nativity, stop at a souvenir shop sanctioned by the (usually Israeli) tour company, and then drive back out without ever talking to a single local, or even being aware that they were in Palestine!  If there is ever to be peace in the Middle East, and reconciliation between these two people, it will (I believe!) only come from getting to know “the other” as individuals.  “Tell people to come and visit,” say my Palestinian friends every time I visit.  “Tell them we are human beings.”  Well, they are – and I am! 

Come, visit - the scenery is wonderful!

That said, we all understand that Palestine is not a destination for everyone.  It can be a bit short on “creature comforts” at times, although I have visited many comfortable hotels and guest houses.  And the food is universally delicious and nutritious!  But travel is not always easy.  Unlike the “settler only” roads, Palestinian roads are not always well maintained and public transportation can be unpredictable.  Still, the scenery (or at least that part of it not destroyed by ugly settlements!) is beautiful; the people friendly and the hospitality outstanding!  And, another consideration, costs are much less than in Israel!