Friday, January 24, 2014

Goodbye, Tulkarm! :-(



Muawya and son Adam

A few weeks ago, Muawya, our beloved driver-translator in Tulkarm, posted on Facebook that the Tulkarm EA office would be closed when Team 50 (then in residence) left.  I read that post in disbelief – and shed tears.  I was crying not only for the end of an era, and for all the memories I had left in Tulkarm, but for the people I had known and loved there!

I cried for Muawya – who would go back to driving his taxi without knowing that his customers included a group of internationals who cared passionately about the well-being of his family and his nation.  I cried for the women of Shufa, with whom I’drunk tea and eaten fabulous Palestinian cuisine, while they practiced their English and we all laughed together.  I cried for Ahmed, whose village of Sabastiya was but one of many villages plagued by settler violence, yet who always had a ready smile and time to show off the historical beauty of his community.

Agricultural gate through which farmers and shepherds must pass
I cried for the farmers and shepherds, forced to spend countless hours in long lines to cross through agricultural gates so they could tend their crops – and for school children whose education was routinely interrupted by the time they spent going through the  checkpoints between their homes and their schools.  And I cried for the workers, who had to swallow their pride to pass through the inhuman Taybe/Ephraim checkpoint daily – and then to further subjugate themselves to Israeli employers on the “other side,” who treated them almost as badly as the soldiers at the checkpoints. 

The “official” announcement of the Tulkarm closing from the EAPPI office stressed that the placement was NOT being closed, but that the Jayyus team would “now be responsible for Tulkarm priority areas.”  The announcement went on to explain that, “This shift is the result of several years of feedback from EAs and beneficiaries, and discussions with EAPPI’s National Coordinators and Local Reference Group.” 

I understand the office’s position – I really do.  There are only so many people who are willing to take three months out of their lives and live side-by-side with the Palestinians, with the physical and emotional hardships that are part of the “job description.”  And I understand that EAPPI wants to put a team in the Jordan Valley – where anyone who reads even American media knows that serious problems have been brewing for quite a while.

Soldiers detain a young boy
Still, I wonder.  When I was there – less than a year ago – both the Jayyus team and the Tulkarm team (not to mention the other five teams!) were pretty busy – and I understand that things have “heated up” in the time since.  More settler violence, more destruction of homes and crops, more soldier harassment – including of children – more human rights violations to observe and report on, more “accompanying” needed all around!

Sometimes there are no answers.  Sometimes, I just put words on paper to more clearly express the questions – and my feelings about them!  I understand that Team 50, the last team to serve Tulkarm (on a full-time basis, anyway), has had their farewell party – and that Team 51 will be heading in different directions.  And, although my “farewell party” was last April, I haven’t yet truly said “goodbye” to Tulkarm. 



Sunset over the Tulkarm mosque near where I lived

It will remain in my heart – and in my soul.  And when next I return to Palestine, I will go back and visit the friends I made there – and the places that I loved!  Pray for them – and for all the Palestinians who continue to suffer!!

Sunday, January 5, 2014

A Few Good Reads



Time to update my reading list!  When I last visited this subject, in December, 2012, I was preparing for my stay in Palestine, and reading books to give me “background” on the issues.  Now that I’m home, I continue to read – both to keep myself current on “the situation,” and to be able to suggest reading material to others, in the hope that they will become better informed as a result!

When I do presentations – part of my advocacy work here in the US – I ask my audience to educate themselves on this topic.  And I distribute my own “Resource List,” which includes books and films.  Having just updated this list for a Sunday school class I am teaching at my church, I decided to share some new additions, along with a few titles that await further exploration:

Goliath: Life and Loathing in Modern Israel by Max Blumenthal.  This book is a bluntly-worded summary of Blumenthal’s travels in modern Israel and the West Bank since 2009 – the year Netanyahu became Prime Minister of Israel, and the year of “Operation Cast Lead,” during which the Israelis rained bombs on Gaza with unrelenting force!   Blumenthal, an American Jew, tells his story through a series of vignettes, each highlighting a different aspect not only of the Occupation, but of the travails of the non-Jewish citizens of Israel.  While I highly recommend this book, I would also suggest pacing yourself – and maybe having something “light” to read when you’re finished with it!  It is pretty intense!

Miral by Rula Jebreal – When I saw this movie a couple of years ago, I knew I had to read the book.  When Miral’s mother died, her father takes her to a school that had been started years earlier for refugee Palestinian girls.  Miral must balance her wish to obtain a good education and make her father and teachers proud of her and her desire to fight the injustices she sees happening all around her.

Fast Times in Palestine by Pamela J. Olson – Olson is an American who, 100 years ago would have been called an “adventuress.”  Rejecting the workaday world that her college degree would have provided, she opted for a life of travel – and, almost by accident, found herself in the West Bank, working as a journalist and living a life unlike any she could have dreamed of during her Oklahoma girlhood.  A wonderful look at day-to-day Palestinian life – with both its drama and its ordinariness! 

A couple of other books that await their turn on my nightstand are:

A Wall in Jerusalem by Mark Braverman
What Do You Buy the Children of the Terrorist Who Tried to Kill Your Wife by David Harris-Gershon
Tomorrow There Will be Apricots by Jessica Soffer
Brokers of Deceit: How the U.S. Has Undermined Peace in the Middle East by Rashid Khaladi

All come highly recommend – I’ll let you know what I think!