I have been describing my recent (October 2014) trip to
Palestine/Israel as a “spiritual and culinary journey.” The spiritual part came from my fellow
travelers, guided by a clergywoman who provided inspiration and understanding
as we dealt with the minefields of viewing the Occupation through the lense of Christianity
and humanity.
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| Makloubah (photo by Diana Fisher) |
The culinary part came from the outstanding hospitality
we experienced (nothing new to those of us who’d been there before – see, for example,
“Food – Glorious Food” - February 22, 2013) and, for me at least, particularly from
Easmat in Tulkarm, and then from Lorette in Bethlehem.
Easmat is the wife of Muawya, who was the
taxi-drive/translator for my EAPPI team when we were in Tulkarm in the spring
of 2013. She is the mother of four young
boys, and was a charming and gracious hostess to our team – welcoming us to
their home for traditional Palestinian meals, and cake and coffee visits. On this, my first trip back since leaving in
late April, 2013, I returned to Tulkarm for a visit with Muawya and Easmat and
their family.
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| Palestinian Market (photo by Diana Fisher) |
It was a day during which everyone in our travel group of
six had made her own plans – and, for me, those plans were to take the bus to
Tulkarm (via Ramallah) for lunch with Muawya’s family. Upon my arrival in Tulkarm, I found Muawya at
the taxi stand, and he drove me to his home where I visited with Easmat as she
prepared our lunch. It was the first
time I’d seen her without her hijab (on previous visits there were always men
present) and she reminded me of my daughters and daughters-in-law, as she
bustled around the kitchen, juggling cooking and child care. I was much impressed that she remembered the
names and ages of my children and grandchildren – especially considering how
many internationals had been in and out of her home in the past several years.
As we visited in her cozy kitchen, I sipped mint tea and
perched on a chair, while Easmat prepared a delicious chicken and rice dish
(she wouldn’t let me help). The boys
wandered in and out of the kitchen, looking for a snack, wanting help with
their homework, curious about the foreigner in their home but polite and respectful
of the adults. The oldest boy even asked
me for help with his English homework!
It was a delightful day – and one I will long remember!
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| Lorette (photo by Diana Fisher) |
In Bethlehem, our small group stayed in an apartment in a
“family compound” owned by Lorette and her husband, Nicola . Other family members lived nearby; their three
sons and their families lived in a building a short distance away that Lorette
and Nicola had built for them. Family is
important – and they have done everything they can to keep theirs close.
Lorette prepared all of our breakfasts and dinners while we
were in Bethlehem – sometimes we were a group of eight (our travel group of
six, plus Lorette and Nicola); at other times, the table expanded to include
other family members, friends, acquaintances and “drop ins!” There was always plenty of food to go around!
During our time there, Lorette gave us cooking lessons
(the “culinary” part of the trip) in her spacious kitchen. We accompanied her to the local market in
Bethlehem (just one street over from the “tourist market” off Manger Square)
and watched her select the foods that would end up in our dinner.
Then it was back to the kitchen, where she set us to task
– one chopping veggies, one frying cauliflower, another chopping garlic (a LOT
of garlic goes into Middle-Eastern cuisine!).
The camaraderie of group cooking was wonderful – and the results made for
mighty tasty eating!
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| In Lorette's kitchen in Bethlehem (photo by Diana Fisher) |
